★彡☆彡The Next Big Thing☆彡★彡

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Whatever the industry people are always after the next fashionable thing, the “Next Big Thing” - trends and fads are not exclusive to the world of fashion.  In the wine and spirits industry right now, it’s all about the Gin Palace.  No one is into Prosecco any more (that was so last summer) – the “in thing” right now is artisanal G&Ts to be sipped only from Gin Balloons (similar to a Brandy glass but with a longer stem).    

I admit I’m not totally into this trend, actually I think it's a little lame.  Drinking from a gin balloon is like drinking from a fish bowl - the kind of thing you did as a teenager holidaying in Magaluf.  And yes, while some gins are better than others (I’ll take Martin Miller's over Gordon’s any day), the general flavour profiles can be very much the same – hints of juniper, cloves, etc.  But I have come across another emerging trend, something I find very intriguing – wines of Asia and the Far East.

Chinese businessmen have long had a penchant for French wines, particularly Bordeaux.  Some would argue that this is more of a status symbol than a love for the actual product.  Perhaps this was the case 10 years ago but out of China’s rapidly growing middle class has emerged a growing number of wine connoisseurs - no more red wine cola cocktails, thank you.  Couple this with their growing economy and you start to see the development of Chinese vineyards and wines by both national and international investors.  This is also the case in India, Thailand and Japan.  And let us not forget that these countries indeed do have a very long history of wine making, it is just the case that it has never been on the international wine agenda.  We've been listening to those Old World wine snobs for too long!  

I personally find this exciting stuff – winemakers can experiment with the whole wine making technique and who knows what can happen...what crazy, mind-blowing stuff they can create?  Also, I like to experience new and exciting tastes, take my taste buds beyond what they are used to.  But I know some of my friends find the whole idea a little absurd.  Who would want to drink Thai or Indian wine? Why would you fearlessly try something, which may be revolting (i.e. not suited for the "educated" western palate)?  We have so many great wines from France, Italy, and Spain – what is the appeal?  I understand their concerns, it is clear that the majority of these wines are destined for the domestic market for the time being but I see no harm in giving them a try.

It is possible to find one or two Indian or Chinese wines in supermarkets and wine shops here in the UK so I thought why not.  Let's see what this stuff is like.  The Indian white wine was a Chenin Blanc by Sula in Nashik (north east of Mumbai) and was what I can only describe as an assault on the senses.  Perhaps I should have been as suspicious as my friends!!  I got some "unusual" notes on the nose – antiseptic mixed with hints of tropical fruits and tinned asparagus.  On the palate, it was quite intense with some tropical fruit and what felt like a lot of sugar.  It had the makings of a southern French Chenin Blanc but the sweetness was overpowering and dampened what could have been nice tropical notes, basically making it short fall of the mark.  Certainly in the west, sweet wines (not dessert) are seen as out dated, almost archaic and perhaps this is not the case in India with consumer’s favouring sweeter white wine styles.  It did however prove itself to be a very useful cooking wine but at the price, around £10, it might seem an extreme alternative to the usual white table wine. 

Sula Vineyards Chenin Blanc (>_<)

The second wine was from Thailand – 100% Colombard made by Monsoon Valley.  Colombard is usually used as a filler grape varietal meaning it is blended with other more aromatic and better tasting grapes like Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc and as such doesn’t have any loud and flashy flavours.  But I admit this wine was a rather lovely surprise.  It didn't make me gag like the Indian Chenin.  The nose was packed with scents of green apples, and unripe peaches and melon.  It had a delicious buttery taste on the palate that lingered on the finish and there was little of the green fruit coming through too.  It wasn’t overly expressive, which is a quality you would expect from a filler variety such as Colombard but it was certainly enjoyable.  Something cool, crisp and refreshing, perfect for a summer evening.  Yet again the price, around £10 was a little high (I'd rather spend it on a mini manicure) as there was not enough complexity or intensity of flavours. 

Monsoon Valley Colombard

My wonderful friend Tom Bicknell, who is equally as curious and insane as I am tracked down some Mexican wine online.  On describing the wine to me, his exact words were “It tastes of fire and sugar.”  Awesome!  To me, this sounds intriguing yet terrifying.  Tasting fire and sugar might be fun but those are not the characteristics I look for in a wine!  But at £4 a bottle, what have you got to loose!  I’ll definitely be trying it soon since the crazy man has bought a whole case...apparently there was 20% discount when buying in bulk!  Lunatic!

If you look at the history of the wine and spirits industry, there are so many cases of what was once thought of as repugnant or uncool becoming the fashionable drink of the season.  Take Japanese whisky.  Once considered a bit of a joke by western whisky connoisseurs, it now enjoys a stellar reputation, with highly sought-after bottlings from distilleries such as Karuizawa and Hanyu changing hands on the secondary market for many times their original price.  

Suntory Time

  
So, there may be some hope for these developing economies and their wine. And while many wine critics, including my friends and colleagues, think that wines from these emerging economies have a long way to go in terms of style and taste, I think they’ve made a really interesting start.  So, if you want to be a hipster trendsetter get on this Asian and Far Eastern wine stuff because I have a feeling this will be the “Next Big Thing”!

Haters Gonna Hate: The Sorrowful Story of Chardonnay by Tom Bicknell

So what do we know about Chardonnay?

We know that it’s one of the most widely planted grapes in the history of viticulture.
We know that its origin is thought to be Burgundy.
We know that it is a bone of contention for many wine drinkers.
We also know that it is responsible for some of the most awesome wines on Earth and is an all-around bloody brilliant grape.  Yet never before has a simple grape managed to divide the wine drinking community quite as much as this little baby. 

So why the hate?

Lets have a little look at the history of the almighty Chardonnay, and see if we can find any answers.

One theory on the ancestry of Chardonnay involves a trip to the Middle East. Lebanese and Syrian winemakers argue that Chardonnay was taken to Europe by the returning Crusaders. However, there is little evidence to suggest this theory is true.

What Beauties?  Chardonnay Grapes up close

A more likely scenario, assisted by modern DNA fingerprinting techniques, suggest Chardonnay is a cross between Pinot Blanc, commonly grown by the French aristocracy, and Heunisch, a grape variety thought to be brought over to France by the Romans; the Pinot being the grape of choice for the aristocracy, and Heunisch being widely cultivated by French peasants. Due to the close proximity of the vines, they had plenty of chances to interbreed. As the parent plants were so genetically distant, a process called heterosis took place and the resulting hybrids became kind of Incredible Hulk-esque and became more powerful than you could imagine. 

---Sorry to interrupt Tom but it’s time for some Science:

Heterosis or hybrid vigour refers to the phenomenon that progeny of diverse varieties of a species or crosses between species exhibit greater biomass, speed of development, and fertility than both parents (Birchler et al. 2010, The Plant Cell).  While it occurs in both plants and animals, there is no consensus as to the underlying mechanisms for heterosis (is it a case of dominance, overdominance, or pseudo-overdominance?).  However, it could prove to be an interesting tool to help increase agricultural productivity.  Different research groups dealing with the issue of increasing crop productivity reached conclusions that the solution lies in improved biomass production by way of enhanced light capture and use efficiency, modified photosystem biochemistry, and improved partitioning of assimilates to the economic part of the plant all of which can be achieved through the process of heterosis (Blum 2013, Journal of Experimental Botany).

---Alright Alex, don’t go all Stephen Hawking on us! Chill!

How about looking at Chardonnay from a viticultural point of view?

Chardonnay has a wonderful reputation for being a bit like a sponge. The surroundings, climate, soil, and even the winemaker all have a massive influence on the resulting wine. Chablis is a perfect example of this. The majority of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis (Burgundy) are planted on predominantly limestone and chalk, giving the wine itself a fantastic minerality.  Jancis Robinson MW even goes so far as to say that Chablis is the most true and pure expression of the Chardonnay grape.

It’s pretty straight-forward to cultivate, and can easily be manipulated to behave how you want it to.  For instance, it’s an early budding vine, which means it can be susceptible to frost damage. One way this was countered in Burgundy was to give the vines an aggressive pruning just before they try to do their thing, which shocks the vine into holding back on budding usually for about 2 weeks once the danger has passed and the warm weather kicks in.

So far we’ve learned that Chardonnay is easy to grow, historically significant, and a bit like a blank slate. So why does this make people hate the little guy?

Oz Clarke said that Chardonnay is “...the ruthless coloniser and destroyer of the world's vineyards and the world's palates." While I do not agree that Chardie is responsible for destroying the worlds palate, I do agree with his view that Chardonnay was an invader. Countless acres of indigenous varieties were pulled up all over the world to accommodate this newly popular, easy-to-pronounce, easy-to-make-into-wine variety that was taking the world by storm.

Italy and Spain were hit incredibly hard by this, both seeing ancient Negroamaro, Primitivo, Grenache and Mataro vines ripped up in favour of new plantings of Chardonnay.

The new world will also have a share of the blame for the anti-Chardonnay attitudes seen around the world. 

"Borrowed" Chardonnay

A story that I find hilarious about early Chardonnay wine making in Australia is that of Murray Tyrell, based in the Hunter Valley. His entire vineyard was planted from cuttings that he “borrowed” from Penfolds, by hopping their fence at night and giving their vines a bit of a prune… This then went on to become one of the most commercially successful Chardonnays ever. Brilliant, only in Australia!

Now thankfully I’m too young to remember this, but when Chardo-mania hit the world in the mid to late 80s popularity increased across the world, so did demand. Australian farmers simply could not keep up, and had to cut a few corners to continue to meet the demand. One of these corners was adding “filler” varietals, such as Semillon and Colombard to pad out the dwindling supply of Chardonnay grapes. Sadly, the quality went down. And to save time, a lot of winemakers were using oak chips or staves instead of extended barrel ageing. Giving us wines with incredibly acrid and abrasive (verging on abusive) oak flavours. 

In the early 90s Australian Chardonnay, once the farmers had sorted themselves out, was in a wonderful place – polar opposite of the Burgundian style. These wines were big, loud, shouty fruit-bombs, rich and voluptuous with huge hits of tropical fruit. Very appealing to the modern wine-consumer. Over the course of the next 5 years, Chardonnay planting down under increased fivefold. Chardonnay was now seen as ‘fashionable.’

But why would this cause people to recoil in fear when you suggest they try a Chardonnay?

Well, as with all things that become incredibly popular the producers realised they didn’t really need to treat their wine with the respect it deserved. People were still going to buy it by the gallon.

This is where the New Worlds tendency (and the Old Worlds reluctance) to label the variety on the bottle, in my opinion, did the most damage.  Let’s say you buy an Aussie chard from the supermarket and it’s rubbish. Then you do the same thinking it was just a blip and buy another bottle of rubbish. Eventually you’ll tar all Chardonnays with the same brush and develop the mindset that “Chardonnay sucks! I’ll just stick to what I know I like”, even if what you like is a Chardonnay masquerading behind a French word like “Pouilly-Fuissé”, “Mâconnais” or “Chablis.”

Even in 2013 working in wine retail I see examples of this on a weekly basis. One of my favourite questions to be asked at work is “Can you recommend me a wine? I don’t like chardonnay, but really like Chablis” – this makes me both happy and sad. Sad because Chardonnay has been unfairly stigmatized, but happy because people are still enjoying it even if they’re ignorant to what they’re actually drinking.

So next time you’re buying wine and see a Chardonnay, don’t be afraid.  Give in to temptation. 

Do as Kath, Kim & Kylie would do, kick back with a lovely glass of C(h)ardonnay - remember the "H" is silent...it’s nice, it’s different, it’s unusual.

Time For An Upgrade

Bacchante is currently going through a make-over!  

I have never been one to conform to a stereotype (my other blog The Lab Bench is my Catwalk is testament to that).  So I decided it was high time that I stopped trying to be a "serious/boring" wine blogger.   Be a bit more fun and funky...a bit more me...

I will still continue to write about wine, and try and include little pieces about spirits, but I shall not aim to preach or be boringly informative.  I love drinking/learning about wine and I have a hell of a lot of fun doing it so it is important to me that you do too.

So keep a look out for Bacchante Mark II...

 

A Beginner’s Guide to Italian Wines

Italy’s wines can be a constant source of confusion.  The wealth of native grape varietals and a host of regions and delimited wine regions – DOC, DOCG (similar to the French term appellation d'origine contrôlée) - can puzzle even the most astute of wine lovers.  But not to fear, a basic understanding of the principal grapes and the main wines that they produce is easy to acquire and unlocks the door to Italy’s viticultural diversity.  

Italian labelling terms

Classico indicates the historic centre of many DOC and DOCG regions within these sites producing some of the best wines.  Riserva indicates that a DOC or DOCG wine has been aged for a minimum number of months before release and must contain high minimum alcohol.

Red wine regions and grape varieties

In Piemonte, the most famous reds are Barolo DOCG and Barbaresco DOCG and are both made from Nebbiolo grapes.  Nebbiolo produces full-bodied wines with high tannins, alcohol and acidity and develop incredible complexity with notes of liquorice, mushroom and leather with age.  Barolo usually commands a premium price but is certainly a good investment for the cellar.

Hailing from central Tuscany, Chianti and Chianti Classico (DOCG) are traditionally dominated by the Sangiovese grape.  Sangiovese produces medium- to full-bodied wines with high levels of tannin and acidity necessary for long ageing.  Basic Chianti is packed with red fruits and hints of spice with nice acidity but the more complex Chianti Classico DOCG shows plum, earth and tomato and tea notes.

Veneto in northeast Italy is the home of Valpolicella and Valpolicella Classico DOC.  Traditionally a blend of local varieties, predominantly Corvina, the styles can vary considerably.  Less expensive styles are usually light-bodied, low tannins and high acidity with pleasant notes of sour cherries and strawberries.  More expensive examples, such as Amarone, are full-bodied, complex dry wines with very high alcohol levels.

White wine regions and grape varieties:

Italian white wines are often characterised as being light- to medium-bodied, medium acid and with delicate floral and green fruit aromas.

Pinot Grigio is an immensely popular white grape grown throughout Italy but the best examples come from Trentino and Friuli.  Dry, medium- to light-bodied with light green fruit characteristics and medium acidity, it is a perfect summer sipper.

Soave and Soave Classico (DOC) are my personal favourites, produced from Garganega grapes situated next to Valpolicella.  It displays subtle characteristics of chamomile and iris and with age (Soave Riserva) these floral notes develop becoming more pronounced and succulent.

Caprese with Soave Riserva

Gavi (DOCG) located in Piemonte is a light, high-acid wine made from Cortese with slightly confected green fruit and citrus notes.

In contrast to the lighter white wines, Verdicchio can be full-bodied with intriguing lemon, fennel and almond notes.  This is certainly a wine to be paired with luscious risottos or fennel and asparagus dishes.  Verdicchio is labelled as Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (DOC) produced in Marche.

I have just touched on a few of the vast multitude of Italian grape varieties and wine styles but I do hope that this can serve as the starting block for your foray into the world of Italian wine.  In my opinion, the only way to get to know a wine region is to start drinking it or better still, go to Italy.

Prosecco e Gelato

Last of the Summer Wine

Pack up the picnic hamper, light up the barbeque, and slather on the sun tan lotion because the British summertime has arrived at last.  Hurrah!  Now is not the time to be indoors - enjoy long lunches in the sun, picnics in the park, and supper under the stars.  However, you choose to dine this summer, you will of course need a good bottle of wine to compliment your menu.

For the picnic hamper, I suggest great all-rounder white wines, which pair beautifully with cold meats and cheeses, salads or quiches.  Spain produces some fantastically refreshing white wines displaying good complexity meaning they work well with a wide variety of foods.  Watch out for Verdejo/Viura blends - nice acidity, plenty of zesty citrus and green apple notes - they also often come with screw caps, perfect for the picnics.  Another great choice is Gruner Veltliner.  Primarily grown in Austria, Slovakia and Czech Republic, it is known as a food-friendly wine with a zingy refreshing-ness and hints of white pepper.

For seafood and pasta dishes, it's best to avoid robust, oaked whites so look to Italy famous for it's delicately crisp wines.  Pinot Grigio is always a great choice and great value for money - serve with seafood linguine or enjoy on its own as a casual sipper.  Vermentino, also known as Rolle in Southern France, has all the qualities to make it perfect for light fish dishes - attractively aromatic with zingy acidity.  In Tuscany, Vermentino takes on the richer and fuller characteristics associated with Southern French Viognier - a perfect accompaniment to asparagus amd lemon risotto.

Also, high on my list is the little known Godello grape.  Native of the northwestern region of Spain, Valedorras, Godello has ripe melon and tropical fruit notes with a perfect hit of acidity and a delicious salty finish that bring out the best in rich and creamy fish and pasta dishes.

Asian dishes require more full-bodied, off-dry white wines packed with tropical fruits.  Riesling is always a good choice here, be it from Germany, Alsace or Australia but it should be relatively young as some of the older vintages take on more of a kerosene nose, which may be a tad overwhelming with the spiciness of chilli, lime and ginger.  Also of note is Argentine Torrontes - full of peach and apricot aromas and with medium acidity.  It works wonders with ginger based dishes - meat, fish or vegetarian.

The heat of the summertime sun rarely inspires people to reach for a bottle of red.  Yet there is simply nothing better than a beautifully barbequed steak washed down with a full-bodied red wine.  New world wines lend themselves better to the task with their fuller flavours and high tannin levels.  And don't forget their health benefits - tannins and the red wine compound resveratrol aid the digestion of red meat, can reduce blood sugar and promote cardiovascualr health (when consumed in moderation).

Argentine Malbecs are unbeatable in how perfectly they match with BBQ meat with a silky soft texture, juicy dark fruits and plush tannins.  Australian Shiraz is also a prize-winning BBQ wine with notes of blackberry, dark chocolate, eucalyptus and liquorice.  Look out for Aussie Shiraz blended with white varietals, such as Viognier or Riesling (usually 4%).  These lift the character of the wine adding an interesting floral dimension.

If you're feeling adventurous, you could try Tannat - the national grape variety of Uruguay.  Popular in South American Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon blends, and as single varietal red wines in Southern French, it is highly tannic, full-bodied with plenty of spicy notes - all the hallmarks of a perfect BBQ red wine.

One red that I feel is overlooked in the summer months is Beaujolais.  Made from Gamay grapes, it's light in style with powerful strawberry and cherry flavours on the palate.  Surprisingly, this red wine can be served chilled and pairs beautifully with grilled chicken.  It can also withstand the heat and spices of a lot of Asian inspired dishes.

And to give some though to dessert.  Sweet wines, such as Sauternes, are always perfect with fruit based desserts, such as tarte tatin, summer pudding and vanilla macaroons.  And never forget bubbles - a chilled glass of Italian Prosecco and a bowl of fresh strawberries and cream is what summer is all about.

Now, just sit back, sip and enjoy!

Wine is a Demanding Mistress

I must admit that there are times my job is incredibly taxing - mentally and physically exhausting.  Particularly leading up to a tasting...

Oh, how I jest!  There is nothing more pleasurable than having a flight of wines to taste on a Sunday evening. 

Yes, preparation for my first wine tasting is going very well! Have found some fantastic native Spanish varietals. It's going to be a great night!

Unobvious Spain

Spain is a dominant force in the global wine market.  It is one of, if not the biggest wine producer in the world with 1.17 million hectares of land devoted solely to the cultivation of grapevines.  It is also home to over 600 Vitis vinifera species with 20 making up the core used for wine production.  Grapevine cultivation and wine making have been a large of Spanish culture with evidence of viticultural practices dating back to 4000-3000BCE long before the wine-trading culture of the Phoenicians arrived on Spanish shores.

Undoubtly, Rioja is the most famous of Spain wines.  And while there are absolutely fantastic Riojas on the market, for example Bodegas Luis Canas Rioja Reserva 2004 Reserva de la Familia, I feel people are missing out on some of the more obscure varietals.  Supermarkets are partly to blame.  Flogging Rioja at bargain basement prices with awful one-liners.  Take Tesco's line "Rioja wines - Spanish for great taste"...Oh dear!  There seems little effort to move beyond this narrow view of Spanish wines - there is much more to be had from the wines of Spain.

So I felt the need to host a little wine tasting showcasing something other than Rioja - delicious summer whites (Verdejo/Viura), juicy reds (Mencia), and the neglected Spanish treasure of Sherry - all to be paired with tapas - Burgos, Manchego, figs, artichokes, Chorizo, Spanish tortillas and salted almonds.

Let's raise a glass to the diversity of Spanish wine!