A Beginner’s Guide to Italian Wines

Italy’s wines can be a constant source of confusion.  The wealth of native grape varietals and a host of regions and delimited wine regions – DOC, DOCG (similar to the French term appellation d'origine contrôlée) - can puzzle even the most astute of wine lovers.  But not to fear, a basic understanding of the principal grapes and the main wines that they produce is easy to acquire and unlocks the door to Italy’s viticultural diversity.  

Italian labelling terms

Classico indicates the historic centre of many DOC and DOCG regions within these sites producing some of the best wines.  Riserva indicates that a DOC or DOCG wine has been aged for a minimum number of months before release and must contain high minimum alcohol.

Red wine regions and grape varieties

In Piemonte, the most famous reds are Barolo DOCG and Barbaresco DOCG and are both made from Nebbiolo grapes.  Nebbiolo produces full-bodied wines with high tannins, alcohol and acidity and develop incredible complexity with notes of liquorice, mushroom and leather with age.  Barolo usually commands a premium price but is certainly a good investment for the cellar.

Hailing from central Tuscany, Chianti and Chianti Classico (DOCG) are traditionally dominated by the Sangiovese grape.  Sangiovese produces medium- to full-bodied wines with high levels of tannin and acidity necessary for long ageing.  Basic Chianti is packed with red fruits and hints of spice with nice acidity but the more complex Chianti Classico DOCG shows plum, earth and tomato and tea notes.

Veneto in northeast Italy is the home of Valpolicella and Valpolicella Classico DOC.  Traditionally a blend of local varieties, predominantly Corvina, the styles can vary considerably.  Less expensive styles are usually light-bodied, low tannins and high acidity with pleasant notes of sour cherries and strawberries.  More expensive examples, such as Amarone, are full-bodied, complex dry wines with very high alcohol levels.

White wine regions and grape varieties:

Italian white wines are often characterised as being light- to medium-bodied, medium acid and with delicate floral and green fruit aromas.

Pinot Grigio is an immensely popular white grape grown throughout Italy but the best examples come from Trentino and Friuli.  Dry, medium- to light-bodied with light green fruit characteristics and medium acidity, it is a perfect summer sipper.

Soave and Soave Classico (DOC) are my personal favourites, produced from Garganega grapes situated next to Valpolicella.  It displays subtle characteristics of chamomile and iris and with age (Soave Riserva) these floral notes develop becoming more pronounced and succulent.

Caprese with Soave Riserva

Gavi (DOCG) located in Piemonte is a light, high-acid wine made from Cortese with slightly confected green fruit and citrus notes.

In contrast to the lighter white wines, Verdicchio can be full-bodied with intriguing lemon, fennel and almond notes.  This is certainly a wine to be paired with luscious risottos or fennel and asparagus dishes.  Verdicchio is labelled as Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (DOC) produced in Marche.

I have just touched on a few of the vast multitude of Italian grape varieties and wine styles but I do hope that this can serve as the starting block for your foray into the world of Italian wine.  In my opinion, the only way to get to know a wine region is to start drinking it or better still, go to Italy.

Prosecco e Gelato

Last of the Summer Wine

Pack up the picnic hamper, light up the barbeque, and slather on the sun tan lotion because the British summertime has arrived at last.  Hurrah!  Now is not the time to be indoors - enjoy long lunches in the sun, picnics in the park, and supper under the stars.  However, you choose to dine this summer, you will of course need a good bottle of wine to compliment your menu.

For the picnic hamper, I suggest great all-rounder white wines, which pair beautifully with cold meats and cheeses, salads or quiches.  Spain produces some fantastically refreshing white wines displaying good complexity meaning they work well with a wide variety of foods.  Watch out for Verdejo/Viura blends - nice acidity, plenty of zesty citrus and green apple notes - they also often come with screw caps, perfect for the picnics.  Another great choice is Gruner Veltliner.  Primarily grown in Austria, Slovakia and Czech Republic, it is known as a food-friendly wine with a zingy refreshing-ness and hints of white pepper.

For seafood and pasta dishes, it's best to avoid robust, oaked whites so look to Italy famous for it's delicately crisp wines.  Pinot Grigio is always a great choice and great value for money - serve with seafood linguine or enjoy on its own as a casual sipper.  Vermentino, also known as Rolle in Southern France, has all the qualities to make it perfect for light fish dishes - attractively aromatic with zingy acidity.  In Tuscany, Vermentino takes on the richer and fuller characteristics associated with Southern French Viognier - a perfect accompaniment to asparagus amd lemon risotto.

Also, high on my list is the little known Godello grape.  Native of the northwestern region of Spain, Valedorras, Godello has ripe melon and tropical fruit notes with a perfect hit of acidity and a delicious salty finish that bring out the best in rich and creamy fish and pasta dishes.

Asian dishes require more full-bodied, off-dry white wines packed with tropical fruits.  Riesling is always a good choice here, be it from Germany, Alsace or Australia but it should be relatively young as some of the older vintages take on more of a kerosene nose, which may be a tad overwhelming with the spiciness of chilli, lime and ginger.  Also of note is Argentine Torrontes - full of peach and apricot aromas and with medium acidity.  It works wonders with ginger based dishes - meat, fish or vegetarian.

The heat of the summertime sun rarely inspires people to reach for a bottle of red.  Yet there is simply nothing better than a beautifully barbequed steak washed down with a full-bodied red wine.  New world wines lend themselves better to the task with their fuller flavours and high tannin levels.  And don't forget their health benefits - tannins and the red wine compound resveratrol aid the digestion of red meat, can reduce blood sugar and promote cardiovascualr health (when consumed in moderation).

Argentine Malbecs are unbeatable in how perfectly they match with BBQ meat with a silky soft texture, juicy dark fruits and plush tannins.  Australian Shiraz is also a prize-winning BBQ wine with notes of blackberry, dark chocolate, eucalyptus and liquorice.  Look out for Aussie Shiraz blended with white varietals, such as Viognier or Riesling (usually 4%).  These lift the character of the wine adding an interesting floral dimension.

If you're feeling adventurous, you could try Tannat - the national grape variety of Uruguay.  Popular in South American Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon blends, and as single varietal red wines in Southern French, it is highly tannic, full-bodied with plenty of spicy notes - all the hallmarks of a perfect BBQ red wine.

One red that I feel is overlooked in the summer months is Beaujolais.  Made from Gamay grapes, it's light in style with powerful strawberry and cherry flavours on the palate.  Surprisingly, this red wine can be served chilled and pairs beautifully with grilled chicken.  It can also withstand the heat and spices of a lot of Asian inspired dishes.

And to give some though to dessert.  Sweet wines, such as Sauternes, are always perfect with fruit based desserts, such as tarte tatin, summer pudding and vanilla macaroons.  And never forget bubbles - a chilled glass of Italian Prosecco and a bowl of fresh strawberries and cream is what summer is all about.

Now, just sit back, sip and enjoy!